Written so the factory does not have to guess.
Tech packs, grading, trims, QC and the time-and-action - in the factory's own language, at the level of detail that stops a sample coming back wrong.
The size curve
One block, cut six ways.
Grading is not a percentage. The girths move 4cm a size and the shoulder moves 0.6cm, which is why a scaled photocopy of a pattern fits nobody.
| Size | EU | Bust | Waist | Hip | Shoulder |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 34 | 80.0 | 62.0 | 86.0 | 37.2 |
| S | 36 | 84.0 | 66.0 | 90.0 | 37.8 |
| Msample | 38 | 88.0 | 70.0 | 94.0 | 38.4 |
| L | 40 | 92.0 | 74.0 | 98.0 | 39.0 |
| XL | 42 | 96.0 | 78.0 | 102.0 | 39.6 |
| XXL | 44 | 100.0 | 82.0 | 106.0 | 40.2 |
What the season runs on
The seven documents nobody budgets for.
Not the pack itself - that is one file and it is on the product page. This is everything the calendar demands around it: the fit session, the sample log, the 4-point inspection, the AQL plan, the T&A, landed cost and the supplier agreement. Page through each and download the real file.
Fit Session Report
Word · page 1 of 4
Switch deliverable
Where a spec actually lives
A measurement is a band, not a number.
The gap between a beautiful design and a shipped garment is a stack of unglamorous documents, and it is where most small brands lose a season. The most common cause of a rejected sample is a spec that gave a target without a tolerance, so the factory hit the target on the sample and the mean on the bulk. The register runs from the tightest band to the loosest.
- Critical
- Neck, armhole, waist. Out of band and the garment does not fit anybody.
- Fit
- Chest, hip, rise. Out of band and it fits a different person than intended.
- Length
- Body, sleeve, inseam. Visible, forgiving, and the one customers return on.
- Detail
- Pocket placement, trim position. Reads as quality rather than as fit.
- Informational
- Recorded so a later season can be compared, not inspected against.
The tolerance register above is what stands between this and a bulk run that measures to the mean instead of the target. Nothing here is decided by eye.
The one job this page is about
Hand the factory a spec it can build from without a phone call.
- How often it comes round
- Every style, every development round, every handover.
- Skip it once
- The factory interprets the gaps, and the sample comes back wrong in a way that costs a whole round.
Inspection
You find it at final, which is the worst place to find it.
You find the defect at final inspection.
By then it is made. Discount it, rework it, or miss the date - all three come out of margin.
What we do
The sampling plan, defect classes and lab package are set before the run, and the spec's risk is scored while it is still a spec.
- Fit-risk audit
- Marker and fabric-yield optimisation
- Pattern blocks and grading
The tech pack is right and the garment is wrong.
Fit is the biggest single driver of returns, and a size label is a marketing decision, not a measurement.
What we do
A package in the format a factory reads, graded to a real size curve, with fit risks named before a sample is cut.
- Fit-risk audit
- Pattern blocks and grading
- Print repeats and colourways
Every substitution reopens the costing.
A discontinued trim or a wasteful lay plan quietly moves the landed cost you already quoted.
What we do
Substitutions are checked on performance and price together, so the change arrives as a number.
- Fabric substitution
- Fibre commodity prices
- Marker and fabric-yield optimisation
The pack
What the factory is handed.
Specifying, grading and inspecting are three trades, and a pack that confuses them is a pack that gets queried.
- Surfaces
- Tech Pack,Deep Research
- Specialists
- Production Specialist, Materials Specialist, Production Planner, Fashion Designer
- Instruments
- Marker and fabric-yield optimisation, Fit-risk audit, Pattern blocks and grading, Fabric substitution, Fibre commodity prices, Print repeats and colourways
- Count
- 2 surfaces · 4 specialists · 6 instruments
Built for/Design & product, Sourcing & production
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